Setenil de las Bodegas is a town on the Pueblos Blancos Route in the province of Cadiz. Its urban scheme, declared a Historic Site, has its epicentre in the gorge of the Guadalporcún river, in the interior of the municipality itself.
Archaeological sites date the first settlements in the area to the Neolithic era. There is evidence of an ancient roman settlement in the area, called Laccipo, although it was not until the late Middle Ages that the first settlements were established in the territory currently occupied by the municipality.
LOCAL FESTIVITIES
The Hermitage of Nuestra Señora del Carmen stands out in Setenil’s geography due to its location on the crag in the Cerrillo neighborhood. The temple, built in the 18th century, is one of the most emblematic buildings in the town and houses an altarpiece of the patron saint in its single nave.
The rural dwelling under the rock is an essential visit for any tourist, a smile on your face, a cozy, welcoming and centrally located cave-house in Cuevas de la Sombra Street, in one of the most striking villages you can imagine.
The Jabonería and Cabrerizas streets stand out from the urban layout for their uniqueness, being part of Setenil’s identity and the setting for Curro Jiménez films. The layout has been adapted to the course of the Guadalporcún river, which has created caves on one of its banks. These roads are typical of the architecture of the municipality, with the houses built on the rocks, which serve as a natural roof. On the other hand, the Cuevas del Sol and Cuevas de la Sombra streets are also well known and visited by visitors to the town. The first is the one that receives the most natural light on the façades of its houses and the second street stands out for its scenery, as the rock is suspended between two rows of houses. Calcetas Street links the river with the historic quarter and was the place where the Damita de Setenil was found. A place of great beauty in the town is the Herrería Street, where the romantic spot of Kiss me in this corner is located.
The Saint Román Caves are a fluvial area with an important environmental, ethnological, ecological and recreational value. This geological landmark connects the Guadalporcún river with Setenil, flowing through cave houses and gorges.
The House of the Damita of Setenil is an important house that serves as a museum and brings the history of the town closer to visitors through the utensils and architectural elements extracted from different archaeological sites. The name of this building comes from the most representative piece found in the excavations carried out in 1997, a five-thousand-year-old venus that proves that in prehistoric times there were already settlements in the area.
The Hermitage of Saint Sebastián, located in the highest part of the hillside, is the first Christian temple in the town after the Reconquest. Built at the end of the 15th century on the outskirts of Setenil, it has a late Gothic style and is small in size. Tradition has it that it comes from the tents dedicated to sacred spaces that were set up during campaigns and sieges. The Procession of Silence, one of the oldest in Spain, departs from this temple.
The Homage Tower is the most characteristic and best-preserved element of the Nasrid period in the town. Both elements formed part of the old Almohad fortress that encircled the Crag of Setenil since the 12th century. The ancient construction needed several assaults to be conquered by the Catholic troops. Next to the fortification is the Aljibe, an underground building that supplied water to the interior of the castle.
The Hermitage of Saint Benito is another of the religious buildings in the urban fabric of the municipality. Its construction was completed in the 18th century and it has a classical façade, crowned by a belfry with a bell. The venerated image of Padre Jesús Nazareno, patron saint of the Black Brotherhood, can be found inside.
The Roman ruins of Acinipo correspond to an ancient city located in the present-day municipality of Ronda. The city lived its moment of greatest splendor at the end of the 1st century AD and its theatre is still preserved. The monument, in a remarkable state of preservation, shares a strong link of identity with Setenill, being less than 10 km away from the town by car.
The Coracha-Mina sites were part of a wall that surrounded the town and consisted of 27 towers. It constitutes the fortress of the first urban settlement in the locality after the fall of the Roman city of Acinipo. The origin of this name comes from the rock structures excavated to obtain water from a well during the sieges suffered by the town.
It is a late Gothic style temple built on the foundations of the old main mosque of the town. Despite being sponsored by the Catholic Monarchs, it took a long time to finish construction due to the lack of funding that prevented the project from being completed. The result is a building that mixes styles such as early Mudejar, Gothic and Renaissance. Of particular note is the Altarpiece of the Anunciación that it houses, painted at the end of the 15th century.
From the Nasrid presence in the town, we find the Old Town Hall, built in the 16th century, which has a rectangular floor plan with a Mudejar coffered ceiling of pair and knuckle of great beauty. This building is the only one of its kind preserved in the province.
The Transhumant Inns Route takes its name from the fact that it is an ancient nomadic passage area. The route, along the livestock trails Vereda de las Vegas and Camino de Sevilla, connects the municipalities of Torre Alháquime and the hamlet of Venta de Leche, in the municipality of Setenil. The starting point is the meadow of the Guadalporcún river, continuing through the Las Vegas de Arriba recreational area, a large wooded space which is also the site of the Saint Juan pilgrimage. Leaving this area behind, we reach La Venta via the drovers’ road.
The Alms Road is a path that crosses a mass of holm oak trees and scrub located on a hill near the municipality. The path connects with other routes such as The Cowboys and The Bandits routes.
The itinerary made of viewpoints and streets of Setenil brings visitors closer to the municipality and its unique urban scheme.
The Traveller’s Route recreates the path that has served for centuries as an itinerary between the main Andalusian cities of the time. This trade route was of vital importance between the 18th and 19th centuries, as it linked Osuna and Ronda and connected with the road that joined Seville with the capital of the kingdom. The strategic location of Setenil de las Bodegas led to a prosperous economic situation during this period. Numerous personalities of the period traveled along this path, leaving proof of the opulence of its livestock and the beauty of the forests surrounding the town.
The Setenil Mills Route runs along the Vereda de Alcalá del Valle, on the banks of the Los Molinos stream, a tributary of the Guadalporcún. It begins in the town center and ends at the road that connects with the municipality of Alcalá del Valle. The variety of fauna and flora make this route unique and truly beautiful landscapes. Along the way, you will come across two old cereal mills and an oil mill. At the point where the river and the stream meet, the Escarpes del Trejo begins, one of the most beautiful spots in the area.
The route from Setenil to Caños Santos connects the town with the 16th century convent. It runs along the livestock trails of Cordel del Camino de Malaga, Cañada de Ronda to Osuna and Cañada Real of Malaga, all located on hills and elevations of medium altitude and with vegetation used for livestock and olive crops. The road was an important means of communication between Andalusian cities during the 16th and 19th centuries. Our point of arrival, the old convent, is now used as accommodation and a cultural center.
The Route of the Bandits is a path of great historical value as it is a route typical of an era marked by the presence of bandits on the roads. The main characters of the paths that cross and make up this route are the forests of cork oaks, holm oaks, gall oaks and deep scrubland, which were witnesses to the bandits’ assaults. The Seven Children of Écija or El Tempranillo are some of the protagonists who frequented these paths. A total of eleven kilometers makes up the route, which runs along the banks of the Guadalporcún river, and whose diversity of landscapes, fauna and country houses offer a unique experience of great beauty.
The Path of la Aguilera links the municipality with Sierra Molina and, in turn, with the old path of Osuna. This route was of vital importance in its time, as it served as a link to Ronda.
The Scarps of the Trejo River Route is a path of great scenic value, as the cliffs and escarpments are intermingled by the Trejo River. This itinerary starts in the town center and ends at the Trejo farmhouse, running along the river bank. This path is close to the road that connects the town with Torre Alháquime.
The Cañada de Malaga Route has become one of the most important roads in the municipality due to its importance in terms of trade, livestock and mobility. Along its route it meets the old Osuna Road. Along with other paths, such as the road from Seville to Ronda, it boosted the town’s economy for centuries. Nowadays, the original route has not been preserved in its entirety, disappearing when it crosses the Traveller’s Route.
The Colada de Venta de Leches Route runs along the livestock trail of the same name, which is located to the southwest of the municipality. In turn, it connects two livestock trails: the Vereda del Camino of Algodonales with the Vereda del Camino of Sevilla and the Vereda del Quejigal. The route is of low difficulty and fairly linear, so it is recommended for families and children. The wooded path leads to the Venta de Leche, however, it is signposted as the Route of the Bandits, as it runs along the road and connects with this route, which climbs up to the Roman ruins of Acinipo.
The celebration of Holy Week in Setenil is so important that it has been declared of National Tourist Interest in Andalusia. The complex urban layout of the town makes the stations of penitence a spectacle worthy of being seen live. The healthy rivalry between the brotherhoods of the Whites and the Blacks, the musical accompaniment of the images by the bands and the multitudinous acts carried out throughout the week, make this festivity one of the most acclaimed and desired by visitors and natives of the municipality.
As is typical in the calendar of festivities in the region, Carnival is celebrated with a display of costumes and colors. ‘Pasacalles’, ‘charangas’, children’s competitions and live performances complete the programme of these festivities that herald the coming of Easter.
The month of August is marked by the celebration of the Fair and Festivities, where activities take place both during the day and at nightfall. A wide range of activities make up the events of these days, including karaoke, competitions, performances, attractions and fireworks.
The popular race of the 101 km of the Ronda Legion, the best known and most demanding of the ultra-trail category held in Andalusia, has its most attractive stage in Setenil. The municipality, which forms the 56th kilometer of the route and the supply point of the itinerary, experiences an exciting day when it becomes the stage for this sporting event, which already has more than 20,000 registrations per year. Participants from all over Spain and well-known locals are cheered on as they pass by the locals at such emblematic points of the town as the Cueva del Sol and the Cabrerizas.
The Patron Saint Festivities of Nuestra Señora del Carmen take place on 16th July, marked by the novena and the procession of the Virgin. In addition to the religious nature of this festivity, a popular open-air dance is held with live performances and orchestras.
One of the most important and popular events in the festive calendar of the region is the Moors and Christians which is also celebrated in Setenil de las Bodegas. Between 21 and 23 October, the historic Christian reconquest of the territory occupied by the Nasrid town at that time is recreated. Parades, competitions, karaoke and performances enliven these three days that reflect the deep cultural imprint left by both cultures.
The festivities in honor of Saint Sebastián, patron saint of Setenil, take place on the Sunday closest to 21 January. The day takes place between liturgical acts, the procession of the image through the streets of the town and an open-air dance in his honor, which enlivens the rest of the day.
During the weekend closest to the 15th of May, Setenil celebrates its pilgrimage in honor of Saint Isidro. Offerings, masses and hand-kissing begin a weekend of fervor and a lot of emotions. The most eagerly awaited moment comes when the image is accompanied by all the faithful from the village to the area where the pilgrimage is held. In this natural setting, a convivial gathering takes place, with an eminent rock character, where there is no lack of food or music.
The gastronomy of Setenil is made up of dishes and recipes typical of the Sierra cuisine. It is notable for the meat products from the traditional-style slaughtering that is still carried out in the town, although due to current legislation this practice is becoming less and less common.
Confit and baking products are highly valued by visitors to Setenil, such as ‘cortadillos’, pasties and seasonal sweets, such as ‘pestiños’.
‘Cortijeras’ soups, asparagus scrambled eggs, ‘migas’, stews, ‘gazpachuelos’ or stewed beans are part of a menu with great flavor that can be enjoyed in the restaurants and bars of the municipality. All this gastronomic offer revolves around one of the main ingredients of Setenil, of great importance, both economically and culinary: the extra virgin olive oil.
One of the most important and popular events in the festive calendar of the region is the Moors and Christians which is also celebrated in Setenil de las Bodegas. Between 21 and 23 October, the historic Christian reconquest of the territory occupied by the Nasrid town at that time is recreated. Parades, competitions, karaoke and performances enliven these three days that reflect the deep cultural imprint left by both cultures.
The month of August is marked by the celebration of the Fair and Festivities, where activities take place both during the day and at nightfall. A wide range of activities make up the events of these days, including karaoke, competitions, performances, attractions and fireworks.
During the weekend closest to the 15th of May, Setenil celebrates its pilgrimage in honor of Saint Isidro. Offerings, masses and hand-kissing begin a weekend of fervor and a lot of emotions. The most eagerly awaited moment comes when the image is accompanied by all the faithful from the village to the area where the pilgrimage is held. In this natural setting, a convivial gathering takes place, with an eminent rock character, where there is no lack of food or music.
The celebration of Holy Week in Setenil is so important that it has been declared of National Tourist Interest in Andalusia. The complex urban layout of the town makes the stations of penitence a spectacle worthy of being seen live. The healthy rivalry between the brotherhoods of the Whites and the Blacks, the musical accompaniment of the images by the bands and the multitudinous acts carried out throughout the week, make this festivity one of the most acclaimed and desired by visitors and natives of the municipality.
The festivities in honor of Saint Sebastián, patron saint of Setenil, take place on the Sunday closest to 21 January. The day takes place between liturgical acts, the procession of the image through the streets of the town and an open-air dance in his honor, which enlivens the rest of the day.
The Patron Saint Festivities of Nuestra Señora del Carmen take place on 16th July, marked by the novena and the procession of the Virgin. In addition to the religious nature of this festivity, a popular open-air dance is held with live performances and orchestras.
The municipality of Setenil de las Bodegas is located at the intersection between the Sierra de Cádiz and the Serranía de Ronda. It is 134 kilometres from the capital of Cádiz.
From Seville, the most recommended route is the A-375.
From Cádiz, the Carretera of Antequera or A-384 is the quickest route to reach the village.
From Jerez de la Frontera, follow the A-382 and the Carretera of Antequera or A-384.
From Málaga, take the A-357.
From Ronda, the A-428 is the quickest way to reach Olvera.
As for the intercity bus service, the company Comes has a line to Setenil de las Bodegas from Cádiz and Jerez de la Frontera. In turn, DAMAS has a route that reaches the municipality from Jerez de la Frontera, Malaga and Ronda. You can find all the information about routes and timetables on their website.
